Finger marks can be cleaned using liquid lighter fluid (note: inflammable).
Brass and stainless steel counterweights can be polished using commercial metal polish. Don’t use abrasives on gold plated counterweights.
The counterweights before 2014 are secured by the inset nylon screw. Use a small flat-blade screwdriver to tighten it. Only tighten the screw very gently. Very little pressure is needed to hold the counterweight in place.
Later and current versions (after s/n 700) use a nylon-tipped screw with 2mm allen head. The key from the antiskate quadrant fits this.
We can modify early counterweights to use the current lock screw.
Counterweight won’t fit onto shaft.
NEVER force the counterweight if it is not free on the shaft.
NEVER twist the counterweight on the shaft.
1 Check that the locking screw is loosened.
2 The counterweight is made up of several layers. If the weight has been dropped or knocked they may be out of alignment.
To rectify, loosen the three cap head screws holding the counterweight together by 2-3 turns (2.5mm allen key), then slide the counterweight onto the shaft to align the elements and tighten the screws.
The height of the arm lift can be adjusted by loosening the grub screw inset into the black plastic lift platform. (1.3mm allen key). Check the vta setting carefully before adjusting the arm lift, it is set correctly when the vta is right.
Series Five arm after 2015 with the alloy arm lift platform use an m1.5mm allen key.
Alloy arm lift platforms aren't compatible with earlier arms.
NEVER twist the signal wires together at the headshell.
Only add/remove the tags from the cartridge by holding the tags, never pull the wires.
NEVER pull the interconnect cable, only the plugs. If the plug moves on the cable, the loom will fail.
NEVER attempt to disturb or change the RCA plugs of silver looms. The signal wires are in one run from the cartridge tags and the wire dressing is critical to within 1-2mm. Any attempt to disturb the plugs will result in a failed loom inside the arm.
Tightness of the securing nut is not critical. It is generally only necessary to tighten it enough to stop the am fom turning.
Threaded arm mountings
Some mountings (usually built-in vtas) have a threaded base. Take extreme care with aluminium or anodised bases. You MUST lubricate the threads before screwing the arm into one or the two may lock solidly together. Test-assemble and if the thread appears tight, stop immediately.
Stainless steel vta locks
before 2014 have a small acrylic piston inside. This can drop out if the arm is removed from the base, or can be crushed if the lock is tightened too much. There is a spare in the “spare parts” kit included with the arm. On current arms the lock uses a copper piston.
To remove a crushed vta lock piston:
Standard arms: slide the arm out of the base and push the lock out using a pin 3mm or smaller. This can be done with the arm in place on the arm board.
Micrometer arms: Remove the arm from the arm board. Remove the screw from the tip of the micrometer (2mm allen key). The base can now be slid out of the base and the piston removed as above.
Nylon (screw type) vta locks.
If the screw does not hold securely, change it for one from the “spare parts” pack. Don’t overtighten the screw.
Nylon finger locks
Don’t overtighten. Very light pressure will secure the arm.
Early (nylon screw) vta locks can be updated to the current stainless steel version.
The weight is secured by a small, split lead disc inside. Slide the disc up or down the thread to adjust the height of the weight. If the sisc slips on the thread, squeeze it gently with small pliers to tighten it. There are extra discs in the “spare parts” pack.
Don’t cut the thread short. Having it touch the arm board will stop it swinging.
Very early weights may be of brass or stainless steel and too heavy. The current aluminium one can be fitted.
To test the effect of a headshell shim, attach it temporarily to the top of the headsehll with a spot of “Blu-Tak” (reset the tracking force) to do A/B comparisons. When the correct shim is found, fit it permanently between headshell and cartridge.
Metric sizes are used throughout. Arms and kits after Serial 250 have a "spare parts" pack containing spares of the fixings likely to be lost.
Sizes: Arm yoke cap screw: M2, stainless vta lock and counterweight stub: M4, all others M3. Counterweight lock screw up to s/n 700: M3, after 700, M4. Counterweight body screws, M3 (2.5mm allen key).